Tomatoes II- SOLD

Click Image to enlarge. Bidding has ended.
Size: 24" h x 30" wide. Framed.



I painted another tomato piece this week in response to a customer's request. Since I love tomatoes and love painting tomatoes and was planning to paint more soon anyway, I was very happy to oblige. For next week, I plan to paint an abstract in purple, gold and blue, in response to the request of a dear friend. This is a more challenging undertaking so we shall see how it works out!

Scroll down to the previous post if you would like to read the update on lath framing.

Lath Frame Update

No useful links this week, but I do have a followup to the Friday, May 25, 2007 blog about lath frames for those readers who are artists and collectors looking for a simple, attractive and inexpensive way to frame a pre-stretched canvas. Here is what I have learned so far:

My lumber source was Home Depot. In the molding and trim isle, locate the 3/8" x 1 1/4" x 9' Finger Jointed clear pine strips (Item # CP 433 FJ). These are $.52/ft. in my San Diego store. (If you prefer the non-finger jointed strips, they will be closer to $.90/ft.) The strips have a slight curve along one side, which I chose to use on the front of my frame. FYI, this product is grown under the Forest Stewardship Council AC.

Tomatoes 11 was framed using this product. The canvas is only 5/8" thick but I think the frame gives it quite a bit more heft and presence and a nice, finished look. A 1.5" thick canvas would have cost about twice as much, minus the cost of the lumber, is heavier to handle while painting and costs more to ship. Here's how I made the frame.

1. Measure the height.
2. Measure the length. Add 3/4" to allow for the 3/8" thicknes of the lath. Add more if you want to float your piece in the frame. Note: If you float your painting, a small bit of the nails will be visible.
3. Cut 2 pieces of each size. I did all my cutting at Home Depot in the molding and trim isle, where saws and tables are set up for this purpose. They will also cut it for you with the power saw if you prefer. I did that once and there was no charge for the cuts. Lightly sand the raw ends to smooth. Don't sand much or you will alter the measurements.
4. Stain or paint each piece on all sides. (tip: staining is messier and takes longer to dry. I plan to try painting with an acrylic wash)
5. When dry, using fine wire brads (or similar, small, fine finishing nail) about 5/8" long, nail the width pieces to the top of the height pieces, using 3 brads or nails/end.
6. Place painting face down on a clean surface. Lay frame over painting. Use 1" long, fine wire brad or finishing nails to nail frame to canvas stretcher bar at about 1" and 3" from each end, or as you see is needed.

Don't use the frame as a handle for carrying the painting. Use the stretcher bars or the picture hanging wire that is attached to the painting.

If you have comments or suggestions please leave them in the Comments section of the post. Thanks!
Thank you to my artist-friend in New Mexico for saying even the 1.5" thick pieces look more finished when framed with simple wood strips, which started me on this investigation.